Uncorked: Chile's MontGras sets its sights higher

In 1992, Chilean businessman Hernan Gras, his brother, Eduardo, and a colleague established MontGras winery 100 miles south of Santiago in the Colchagua Valley.

Their goal: To make wines that are "gustoso" — tasty, says senior winemaker Santiago Margozzini.

"We're looking for roundness, sweet, ripe tannins," he said, "with spicy, peppery black fruit, so soft and mellow, you can drink it as soon as it's done fermenting."

The protected valley between the Coastal Range mountains and the Andes boasts warm days, cool nights and plenty of sun. Today, MontGras' 460 acres produce 600,000 cases of wine a year, most for export.

With that foundation, the owners turned to more ambitious goals, adding three vineyards and brands between 1998 and 2006.

"We want to produce world-class wines that give customers great value from a number of different locations," Hernan Gras said.

Ninquen, a 250-acre vineyard on a plateau atop a 1,600-foot mountain, "has a number of different sun exposures and soils," said Margozzini. "Because of the altitude, this vineyard gives low yields but powerful wines, capable of longer aging." Ninquen produces 12,000 cases a year.

The 420-acre Intriga vineyard in the Maipo Valley contributes 4,000 cases of "fresh, cool, angular wines capable of aging," said Margozzini.

The 200-acre Amaral vineyard in the Leyda Valley — eight miles from the Pacific and its icy, offshore Humboldt Current — is dedicated to cool-weather varietals such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and pinot noir. It's producing 8,000 cases a year.

Why four separate vineyards? Gras explained: "We think it's easier to have several wineries, each making a few wines, than one winery making many."

Highly recommended

2008 Amaral Sauvignon Blanc, Leyda Valley, Chile: light, lively and crisp, with intense flavors of grass, minerals and white grapefruit; $19.

2006 Ninquen Antu Syrah, Colchagua Valley, Chile: intense mulberry and mocha flavors; big, muscular tannin; age-worthy; $20.

2007 MontGras Quattro, Colchagua Valley, Chile (cabernet sauvignon, malbec, syrah, carmenere): deep color; black plums and mocha; big tannins; $16.

Recommended

2006 Intriga Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile: black raspberries and mocha; intensely fruity; big, ripe tannins; $30.

2007 MontGras Carmenere Reserva, Colchagua Valley, Chile: deep color; milk chocolate, cherry and black pepper flavors; soft, round tannins; $14.

2006 Ninquen Antu Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere, Colchagua, Chile: cassis and black raspberry flavors; big, firm tannins; $20.